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Ao Nang - Get Moving!


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The surrounding areas of Krabi offer a lot to see. This is where you find beautiful coasts lined with white limestone cliffs, tiny little islands with the whitest sand and the clearest water in the world. It is a place of Buddhist temples and monkeys who eat your snacks, and it´s a place full of natural beauty and mangrove forests. Talk about paradise… Obviously, during one week you can´t really see it all. But here´s a look at what you can fit into a tight schedule while staying in Ao-Nang.

In my itinerary I had a few ideas when it comes to trips and tours. I knew I wanted to spend some time with the elephants, I chose two destinations for organized tours and I had some extra ideas in head just in case we actually have time for more. So, eventually, we managed to participate in two one-day tours (James Bond Island and Four Islands), visit an elephant sanctuary and rent motorbikes for a day to explore the area on our own.

Check out my previous post full of tips on how to book a tour, where to get accommodation and what to do in Ao Nang.

James Bond Island

The van picked us up at the hotel in the morning. It was a boat trip, but we kind of had to get to the harbour first. The destination of this tour was a famous island which you might know from the James Bond film Man with the Golden Gun. But there were few other stops along the way.

First of them was Monkey Cave Temple, which is a temple (shocking) made inside a cave (even more shocking) and surrounded by semi-wild monkeys (who would have guessed?!). There is a small open-air market next to the parking spot, where you can buy some snacks for the monkeys. I call them semi-wild, because even though they are not domesticated and they live freely, they are so used to tourists feeding them they can behave like pets sometimes. But don´t get too comfortable, because (as our tour guide put it): monkey steal, monkey bite. The temple, for some reason, felt like it was lacking something. I just couldn´t get the right feeling from it, even though I love temples and have enjoyed all the other ones during our vacation.

Feeding the monkeys was so much fun.

There was something missing in this temple for me. I guess the atmosphere just wasn´t right.

Our tour guide had a gorgeous purple hat, fashionable matching pants with a blouse and called himself Cindy. He took care of us for the entire day, explaining everything with funny broken English – it´s nice how little is enough to communicate properly. We continued with the van for a while until we reached a small harbour. The lagoon is surrounded by mangrove forests and we were ready to get on a boat.

Our guide Cindy taking pictures of us. From the side of the boat. While it was moving. In slippers.

Another stop was a floating village, where local fishermen live. They are a small and very traditional Muslim community, but I think they make more money from tourism than from fishing. The village is framed with restaurants where tourists on organized tours stop for lunch. 

The lunch in the floating village was light but delicious.

I don´t think I have ever seen a floating village like this before.

After filling our bellies, we continued to enjoy a short kayak ride. Each kayak had its own “driver”, who took us along the beautiful cliffs and through a natural tunnel in the rocks. It started to rain a bit, and the sky became dark, so the pictures from this place didn´t turn out so great, but it was beautiful. Our driver asked us where we are from – I thought “what I nice man, taking an interest in the tourists.” Well, turns out he only asked to estimate how much money he can ask for taking a picture of us. He did not have much luck, because we left our wallet with most of the money on the boat. At first, he wanted 100 THB, but we were only able to collect 30 THB. After that he stopped being so friendly. And the pictures suck, too.

During our kayak ride, it started to rain a little, but we didn´t let it get us down.

But after this, we finally made our way to our destination. James Bond Island is actually called Khao Phing Kan, but you probably won´t ever hear this name. It is easier for tourists to pronounce James Bond and the Thais are flexible. We spent like hour and a half on this island, which was simply too short. Maybe it was enough for some of the other tourists, but we are not the kind of people to just come, snap a picture, buy a souvenir and leave. We prefer discovering places in our own speed and taking in the atmosphere. But that´s the deal with organized tours.

Bond. James Bond. And the island where some scenes from the fim where shot.

4 Island Tour

The second day was again spent on sea. The 4 Island Tour must be one of the most incredible things I have ever seen in my life. But don´t be fooled by the name, technically you only visit one peninsula, two islands, and swim by the third one. The tour will – in no particular order- take you to four different places just off the coast of Krabi and Ao Nang. Because it is one of the most popular tours in the region, it is crowded with tourists. But somehow, we were still able to steal a piece of this paradise just for ourselves.

In the morning we were again waiting for our ride to the harbour. After a while of nervous waiting we realized they forgot about us. Our receptionist called the agency and after a few minutes a pick-up came for us. At the harbour we found out we need to pay a national park entrance fee, which is 400 THB per person. We didn´t know about it, but it appears it´s usually NOT included in the price. We didn´t have that much money with us, but the agency agreed to cover it for now if we pay them as soon as we get back (they had a booth just in front of our hotel). But this was the only issue of the entire day, so after this, we could enjoy our trip.

Long-tail boat waiting for the passangers.

The long-tail boat took us to Railay peninsula, which is separated form the mainland by tall cliffs and only accessible by boat. On Railay there are more beaches and also some hotels, so if you fancy, you can go here for a full day or even stay here for a couple of nights. You can even try rock climbing here. In the short visit, you can see one of the beaches, take a quick swim in the incredibly blue water and get a sneak of Phra Nang Cave, also known as Princess Cave. For some reason, it is dedicated to male´s genitals. And when I say dedicated, I mean hard-core dedicated (penises everywhere!).

I warned you. Penises everywhere :-)

If this doesn´t convince you to visit Railay, I don´t know what will.

The second stop was actually two islands in one. Thale Weak is two small islands connected by a narrow strip of sand, so during low tide you can walk from one to the other with dry feet. When we arrived, the water was just beginning to lower, so in the deepest place we had water almost to our waist. Bust still it was so beautiful. I thought Railay had the most amazing colour scheme in the world, but this place really took my breath away. I have never seen anything like this before. I am going to stop talking for now, the photos speak for themselves.

Part of the passage was dry, but we got wet in the middle.

Only nature can come up with soething like this.

I usually never post pictures of me in swimsuit on the internet. But with a vackground like this, how could I resist?

Next, we stopped by the Chicken Island, which (surprise, surprise) looks like a chicken from one angle. You won´t enter the island, but the boats stop just next to it for swimming and snorkelling. For me it was my first experience with snorkelling, and I fell in love instantly. So many colourful fishes! And I had no idea what beauty I will see on Ko Phi Phi.

Chicken island is where you stop for snorkeling.

The last island is Koh Poda, where we had quick and light lunch and spent the rest of the trip either on the beach, swimming in the sea or just hanging around this beautiful island. We chose to snorkel some more, but there was not much to see. We admired the sceneries a bit more, because you can never have enough of blue sky, white sand, green palm trees and turquoise water. I might be repeating myself, but this is the most incredible tour I have ever taken, so make sure you don´t skip it if you go to Krabi.

The beach on Koh Poda is so long, that the crowds kind of disappear.

We said goodbye to our trip with this gorgeous shot of Koh Poda.

Let´s meet the elephants!

From the moment I booked my tickets to Thailand, I knew I wanted to meet elephants. Quickly I learned, that riding them is not the way to interact and I have discovered elephants sanctuaries, where old elephants are being rescued and given a new home. Sure, the elephants are still making money in tourism, but in much more ethical way. And since they couldn´t survive in the wild anyway, so the other options are either keep carrying tourists on their backs and being mistreated, or dying of hunger because no one can actually afford to feed an elephant. In sanctuaries, they are relatively free to roam, there are no chains, no cages. It´s not a circus, it´s more of a ZOO where the well-being of animals is the top priority (and it doesn´t hurt, if it makes you money in the process). It´s hard to say if this nice treatment continues even after the last tourist leaves, but I choose to believe it does.

Around Krabi, there are two different sanctuaries – Krabi Elephant Santuacy and Krabi Elephant HOUSE Sanctuary. Don´t mistake these two. The Krabi Elephant HOUSE Sanctuary is offered by most agencies in the town and you can book it after you arrive to Krabi or Ao Nang. But it has some conflicting review online (just check TripAdvisor). The other one – Krabi Elephant Sanctuary – has much better reviews and you need to book it a few weeks in advance to make sure they have a spot for you at your chosen day and time.

Is it just me or is the elephant actually smiling?

I can´t recommend Krabi Elephant Sanctuary enough. We booked a morning visit and were picked up at 7 A.M. at the hotel. The group constisting of around 12 people was greeted by the guide, who talked to us about their missions and about the lives of elephants in Thailand. At the time (Autumn 2019) there were three elephants in the Sanctuary. After the morning talk we got to feed the elephants with sugar canes and vitamin balls, which we made from banana and some pre-made mixture and we put those balls right into their mouths. We walked with them around the sanctuary and during this time, the elephants were allowed to do what they wanted. Sometimes, they disappeared into the bushes for a while, only to appear again eating a tree or something. After the walk, we took them to the pond where each of us got a small bucket and a brush and we gave the elephants a proper bath. That was the highlight of the visit.

We put the vitamin balls straight into their mouths.

Sometimes, I get too cought up in the moment, that I forget to take pictures. If this happens to you, too, you will be pleased to hear that the sanctuary has a photographer, who takes pictures during the day. You can find all the photos online on their facebook page the following day. They have very nice pictures, so you can just relax and enjoy and let the pros deal with the camera.

Bathing the elephants was absolute higlight. Credits for this picture and the previous two go to Krabi Elephant Sanctuary and their photographer.

Spending half a day with the elephants was more expensive than paying for the hotel for a week. The ticket costs 2500 THB, but it´s well worth it and I don´t regret spending this money. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity to get close to the gentle giants and really get in touch with them. Also, we learned quite a lot and left the place smarter, more conscious about the wildlife and with new respect for nature.

During our walk, the elephants were free to follow their trunks.

Because our visit was booked for the morning, we had a free afternoon and decided to spend it on the beach. Our hotel had a private beach outside of Ao Nang, so we took a complimentary shuttle there. On the beach, we found an oasis of peace, with only three other people there walking in the sand or laying in hammocks. After recharging our batteries and enjoying this amazing spot, we decided to take a shuttle back to our hotel. But it was not as easy as it might seem because: a) the beach was used by more hotels, and b) all the Thai people look the same to me, and all the tuk-tuks look the same to me. So obviously, we jumped on the wrong tuk-tuk and without realizing it the driver took us to another hotel, which was on the opposite side of town. Walking back to the hotel in the afternoon heat, salty from the sea and in flip flops, almost ruined the day for me, but I got a fresh smoothie on the way so it all got better at the end.

A well-deserved relax on a private beach.

Fast and Furious on two wheels

And yeah, we rented motorbikes. For a day, one bike each. None of us has ever tried driving it. And even though I have my driving licence for a car, I don´t like driving that either. And I haven´t even been on a bicycle for like a year. Can you imagine better conditions for navigating the chaotic Asian traffic on a scooter? I have read some articles on the internet saying that it is not a good idea to sit on a scooter for the first time in your life in Asia, because you will basically die the minute you leave your hotel. But let me tell you – If I did it (and survived), you can do it too. If you wanna know how to rent a bike in Asia, how to drive it and other tips, you can find it in one of my next articles – stay tuned, it´s coming soon.

Helmets on and let´s do this!

Orginally we hoped to reach Emerald Lake and Hot Springs, which are located 70 km away from Krabi, but my superspeed got in the way of this plan. I was so scared, I don´t think I was faster than 20 miles per hour/30 km per hour. So we drove only to the Tiger Cave Temple, which is like 29 km away from Ao Nang.

The temple is located on a steep hill, so you need to climb over 1200 steps to get there, but the views are worth the climb. There are plenty of monkeys, so watch your stuff. After you enjoy the views and decide to come back to the ground, you can enjoy a nice walk through the jungle and see some of the monks´ houses. Pay a short visit to the tiger cave as well. We found it a bit strange, to be honest.

Climbing the stair was challanging as hell, I am not gonna lie...

... but the views make up for it.

When you think you´ve seen it all... 

On our way back we stopped in Krabi to see Susan Hoi, a shell cemetery where you can find plenty fossilized seashells. There are only three places like this on earth, so this area is very special if you are interested in geology, history and nature. I don´t have any geology knowledge whatsoever, so I wasn´t able to fully appreciate this place, but it was lovely anyway. Thai people claim the fossils were created over 75 million years ago, but academics worldwide think it´s actually much younger – only around 25 million years.

75 milion years or 25? Either way, Susan Hoi is super old.

Susan Hoi is full of shell fossils like this.

Strong rain chased us away from the coast into the shops that are at the parking lot. We bought some little souvenirs for our families (little thing like bookmarks and fridge magnets). After the rain stopped, we continued fast and furious (read: slow and careful) on our journey back to Ao Nang. I wanted to return the bikes before sunset, but we decided to drive through Ao Nang and along the coast a little, and it was already dark when we were returning the scooters.

After this, we enjoyed some good food, had a wonderful Thai massage and before going to bed, we booked boat tickets towards our next adventure – the Phi Phi Islands.

 

The advice you never asked for:

  • There are plenty different James Bond Island tours. Each have different stops along the way. Choose the one with the best itinerary for you.
  • The price for the Four Island tour usually doesn´t include entrance fee to the national park, which is 400 THB. Bring this money with you on the day of your trip.
  • If you don´t have a waterproof camera, don´t bring it to Four Islands at all – most of the trip is spent in water and the last thing you want to do is worry about a camera. Just put your phones into waterproof cases and you´re good to go.
  • Snorkelling is a part of Four Island tour. If you don´t have your own equipment, you cant borrow it on the boat
  • If you want to visit an elephant sanctuary (anywhere in Thailand), check the reviews online and book your visit in advance. The good ones get sold out.
  • When renting a scooter, never give your passport as a deposit, always insist on financial deposit. And take pictures of your scooter from all angles.

 

The cost of things (Autumn 2019)

  • James Bond Island + 4 Islands: 2.800 THB for 2 people (80 EUR / 90 USD)
  • National park entrance fee (Four Island tour): 400 THB (11,3 EUR / 12,8 USD)
  • Elephant sanctuary: 2.500 THB (70 EUR / 80 USD), you pay something in advance via PayPal, and the rest in cash
  • Scooter rental: 250 THB per day (7 EUR / 8USD)
  • Deposit for scooter: 3.000 THB (84 EUR / 96 USD)
  • Susan Hoi Entrance: 200 RHB (5,6 EUR / 6,4 USD)
  • Thai Massage: 200 THB (5,6 EUR / 6,4 USD)

 

Where to next:

Link for accommodation: AliSea Boutique Hotel

Book your visit to elephant sanctuary - Krabi Elephant Sanctuary


Previous part: Ao Nang – a beginner´s guide

Next Part: Ko Phi Phi - a complete guide


Bonus article: Everything you need to know about renting a scooter in Thailand (in progress)

First time backpacking in Asia - check out our itinerary here


Do you like the pictures? You can find even more on my Instagram – follow for more travel inspiration and stay tuned for new blog posts.

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